All
roads lead to plaster Master
Dan Does It
5
Page 7
Work at Home Part II
Setting up for Production

If we are ever to produce
mass quantities of castings we will need many molds. Now that we have 1 mold
we can pour plaster into it and make as many models as we want from it. We can take
those plaster models and brush rubber on them to make more latex molds. Here's how
it's done.
Pouring
the Models
The
plaster castings we use to make molds are called models. To pour our plaster models we
must first spray the mold with a surface wetting agent.
Prepare a mixture of 3 gallons of
water with about 1/4cup of Palmolive Dish Detergent or use a mixture of 50% Windex
and 50% water. Either of these preparations can be sprayed into the mold to help the
plaster flow over the inner surface of the mold. The rubber mold has a bit of surface
tension (so who doesn't) that prevents the plaster from flowing into every crevice. This little bit
of surface tension can leave your casting full of tiny air holes. Don't drown the mold
with spray. Use only enough spray to just wet the surface. To much spray will cause
water legs on your castings or leave pitted out sections where the water lays on the
bottom of the mold.
I turn my molds over so any excess water
will run out and they won't dry out in the open air while I'm preparing my plaster. A few
moments before I am ready to pour I turn them right side up again . Notice the universal
banding strap I use to hold the two halves of the back up shell together.
If you need information on mixing plaster go to
Dan does it 2. To figure the amount of water you will need , you can estimate or fill the
mold with water and empty it into a bucket. That is slightly more than what it will take
to fill your mold when you mix plaster in it. You should always mix a little more
than what you will need. Mix the plaster according to the directions in the Dan Does it 2
episode. Appropriate plasters for your model would be Moulding Plaster, Casting
Plaster or #1 Pottery Plaster.
Bubbles, Bubbles,Toil and Troubles
In the process of mixing your plaster some
air will get mixed into the slurry no matter how careful you are. (A Hanson Mixer is designed to introduce a minimal
amount of air into the mix. Some mold makers stir the mix with a stick for a few
seconds after mixing to break up air bubbles just prior to pouring. Pour your plaster
slowly into the mold. It should be poured in a thin stream to help release air
bubbles in the mix. Mold makers sometimes blow on the stream of plaster to break air
bubbles as they are coming out. They also bump the side of the table with their leg
to jar or shake the plaster in the mold as they are pouring. This loosens entrapped air
and helps it rise to the surface.

When the mold is full tap it with your hand
to level the plaster and remove any remaining air bubbles.
Put the mold aside to let the plaster
harden for an hour
Getting the casting out of the
latex mold

Apply a drop or two of dish
detergent to the mold.
Wet your fingers and spread the dish detergent
around on the mold.An alternative to this is to brush on castor oil thinned with 8 parts
denatured alcohol. Castor oil is the only oil to apply to latex molds. Some mold companies
will not honor their warranty if anything other than castor oil is put on their molds.
Start
the removal process by pulling the latex mold open and then in one quick
continuous motion force the mold latex down over itself. Your casting will be
almost entirely free of the mold.

Remove the plaster casting.
You should have a perfect casting without air holes. Now place
the rubber mold in a bucket of warm water or hold it under running water and scrub
it inside and out with a scrub brush. A thin film of residue will develop on the
mold if you do not scrub it regularly.
Pour three or four more models
or as many as you think you will need to make the necessary amount of production
molds. Wash the mold after each casting.
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