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Lost? All roads lead to Plaster Master                                                   Work at Home  pg 6

Plaster Master guide to home business   


Starting Your Own Statuary Business
Making the Backup Shell continued from pg 5

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A Level Headed Mold Will Stand on it's Own

upsidedownmoldSFW.jpg (9478 bytes) Turn the mold upside down and place a level on top the mold board.  Level the mold.   Pack clay around it if you need something to keep the mold level.  Now place plaster strips on the mold to create a foot to make the mold self supporting. Add more plaster to the entire backup shell and smooth it out.

Remove the  Clay

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When the first section has hardened turn it around and remove the clay from the back of the plaster shell.

Making the Second Half

Making the second half of the mold shell is much easier.

Shellac and soap the mold shell

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Apply a coat of shellac to the mold shell half you just made. Then soap up the plaster shell with mold soap. Give it two coats, let it dry.

Apply plaster soaked strips the same as the first half

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Mix up a batch of plaster and put a heavy coat of slurry on the soaped up mold half then apply plaster soaked strips the same as you did on the firtst side.

This is the finished mold

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We haven't opened the plaster jacket yet but this is how it looks with the rubber mold still inside.

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You can now drill 1/4 inch holes in the edge of the back up shell for the clamping bolts that will hold the two halves together. Be careful not to drill through the rubber mold.

 

Dynamite or a Gentle Tap

Opening  the back up shell. Removing the mold and model.

moldopen.jpg (4620 bytes)At this point the model is stilll in the rubber mold. To open the mold use a mold knife or a chisel. Very carefully drive one of the mentioned tools into the seam between the two mold halves.  Do it at a spot where it will not strike the mold rubber.  Pry the two halves apart.

  They should have opened quite easily.  Now tap on the mold shell with the palm of your hand or use a rubber mallet, while you pull on the rubber mold.  You should be able to pull the mold out of the plaster shell.   If you've done the job properly it will not require great effort to pull the mold out of the shell.  This is where you find out how good a job you did at removing the undercuts on the rubber mold. If you have not done a good and thorough  job of filling in the undercuts you'll need jack hamers, a tow truck and possibly 3 or 4 Patriot missiles to blast it loose.  At minimum you will invent words you previously didn't know existed.  You may have to break the back up shell to get the model and mold out.

 

"Slip Slidin' Away"

Getting the rubber mold off the model (use dish detergent)

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First remove the board from the bottom of the mold.  Slip your fingers under one corner of the rubber mold and pull the rubber off the board.

Gently pull the rubber loose from the base of the model creating a little opening.   In talcmoldSFW.jpg (5220 bytes)order to keep the fresh rubber inside the mold  from sticking to itself brush some talc onto the rubber in the gap you have created between the model and the rubber.  Pull the rubber back over itself to get it off the model.  If the rubber does not roll back easily over itself,  rub some dish detergent  mixed with water on the outside of the mold, it will then slip over itself easily.  Once the rubber is pulled all the way off, wash it in some warm soapy water.  The first casting in the new mold will further clean the rubber.

Congratulations you have successfully completed the making of a rubber mold and backup shell.

This ends part I of starting your own home bussiness.

Materials for this project are available at our Sculptor's Place

Part II will deal with producing a quantity of molds for mass production.

work at home part 6

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